Our second day in Florence was all about finding out what encompassed the spirit of the city – it’s art, history, landscape, and of course, it’s food!
Rumour has it that the Uffizi (Florence's equivalent to the Louvre or the National Gallery) gallery's queues were up to two hours long. We decided to arrive at the beginning of the day, and Leonardo Junior recommended we arrive at 7.45 - 30 minutes prior to the gallery opening it's doors to the public. We walked through the early morning mist and the city was surprisingly empty for a Friday morning. When we arrived at the Uffizi, we expected hoards, and found that we were the first to arrive. In fact, even by 8.15am there was only a handful of people to go through the security screening and into the museum.
The Uffizi is huge, and although not exactly my cup of tea - the art work tends to date before the 19th century (which is when I think things in the art world start to get interesting) - there were a couple of highlights: they had a special exhibit on Da Vinci and all about how he married his passion for art with his passion for science; also there was the original painting of a print that Dad used to have when I was growing up and I always found quite creepy. It was funny to see it in person because the print that Dad had was quite huge, and in real life the painting is smaller than an A4 sized piece of paper - so not so creepy after all. We also got a look at Botticelli's Birth of Venus, which is absolutely huge - and pretty impressive!
After several hours wandering the many rooms that encompassed the gallery, we headed out for a well deserved lunch break. Little did we know that we were about to encounter our first important lesson in Italian dining out…
Our first mistake was that we picked a little café that was only 50 metres from the exit doors of the Uffizi. This should have been a sign. We loitered outside the café looking at the various paninis and pastas they were selling in the window. Deciding the food would hit the spot, we wandered in and ordered. I had a ciabatta Panini with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella and a coke. The lady behind the counter asked us whether we wished to take the food away, or instead have a seat in the outside dining area they had at the front of the store. After several hours wandering the Uffizi, we decided to take a seat… big mistake!
My Panini, which started out with a reasonable price of €3.50, automatically had an additional euro added on for the priviledge of being able to sit and eat. Not too bad, right? Well, my coke – just a can, which started life at €2 was hiked up to €5.50. So first lesson, never pick a dining establishment within 50 metres of a world famous tourist attraction. .. second lesson, never agree to sit down, unless you know how much that will increase your bill – in my case 50%!
With fuller stomachs and emptier pockets, we headed for the next destination on our list, Santa Croce Basilica. This rather ornate church is the final resting place of history’s most famous Florentines: Michelangelo Buonarroti, Dante Alighieri, Niccolo Machiavelli, Gioacchino Rossini and Galileo Galilei! As well as checking out the impressive tombs, I also enjoyed the Santa Croce as in one of the adjoining buildings, we discovered a temporary exhibit displaying photos from the 1966 flood which covered much of Florence. Also within the complex was a lovely, peaceful courtyard… totally devoid of people and any sign of the outside world, it was easy for me to convince myself that I had time travelled back 400 years and when I stepped outside the Santa Croce I would be greeted by Renaissance Florence.
Next stop for the day was the Duomo’s Cupola. You may recall several weeks prior to my trip to Florence I went to London and climbed all 311 steps of the Monument Tower… well, another city, another tower (or high building at least!) - this one had 436 steps! The Cupola, which was completed in 1436, was the masterpiece of an architect named Filippo Brunolleschi (apparently the first true Renaissance architect). The view from the top was incredible… I understand that the laws of the city forbid anyone from building anything taller than the Duomo and so you can see for miles in every direction, and truly feel on top of the Florentine world. Red roofs everywhere and Tuscan hills rolling gently along the city borders, Florence is truly beautiful from every angle.
436 steps back to the bottom again and it was time for an afternoon siesta. That evening we decided to try another of Leonardo’s recommendations for dinner – perhaps a wise choice considering what we chose when we were left to our own devices at lunchtime!
We went to a little trattoria, around a 5 minute walk from the Duomo, named Yellow. Fresh Tuscan bread to start, a simple green salad with olive oil and balsamic drizzled over the top, and gnocci della gorgonzola as my main – I was in heaven… and had to be rolled out of the restaurant and back to the hotel! (Mind you, I did manage to fit in a gelato stop – remember there are two stomachs – one from savouries and one for sweets – so even if your savoury tummy is full, you can always fit in dessert!) The gnocci was the highlight of my meal… a beautiful, creamy blue cheese sauce covered the gnocci and the whole dish was garnished with chopped walnuts, which normally I detest, but have now realised perfectly compliment the rich flavour of blue cheese.
So, full on Italian food, and giddy with what felt like the initial stages of love… that is the love of a good city(!)… we headed back to the guest house for a well deserved rest to prepare ourselves for day number three!
Saturday, November 25, 2006
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Mama Mia
Several people have told me that when they visited Florence (Firenze), they found it a bit of a nightmare to navigate. We were very fortunate then, as our lovely little pension was just five minutes walk from the main bus and train depot and a further two minutes to all of the central sights of Florence. After settling in at the Leonardo Guesthouse (owned and run by two generations of Leonardos – uncle and nephew), we set out to explore – first stop... LUNCH!
Leonardo Jnr had very kindly given us a map of the inner city and had marked on it various places he recommend we visit and also several places to eat at. We were not disappointed by his first recommendation, a gorgeous little restaurant named Za-za.
Having not eaten since leaving Stansted airport (and let’s be honest, can you really count airport food as real food!?), we were both starving. There were far too many choices on the menu, but after much agonising I narrowed it down to the fresh spinach and ricotta ravioli with creamy truffle sauce and a glass of pinot grigio (yes, I know I don’t drink wine, but when in Florence…)
The wine came quickly, along with a basket of freshly baked bread, which was equally quickly devoured. The bread was quite dense and crusty – but very yummy – especially with olive oil drizzled over the top! Finally, our mains came. The ravioli was delicious! I could tell it was fresh – the spinach in the ravioli was still green, and the pasta had that egg-y flavour that only comes when it is fresh. The sauce wasn’t too bad either… ok, let's be honest, it was fabulous… in fact, when I ran out of pasta I had to use the remaining bread to sop up the last bits of the sauce!
Fully restored, we headed to the Galleria dell'Accademia to check out the world's most famous sculpture - Michelangelo's David. The Accademia almost certainly has the biggest drawcard of the city, however the rest of the gallery really doesn't have anything else worth noting - especially by someone such as myself who has only recently discovered the joys of art appreciation.
However, just going to see David alone is well worth it. At 4.5 metres tall, he is certainly a lot bigger than I had realised he would be - and thus dominates the purpose built room he has been housed in since the late nineteenth century. Michelangelo was just 26 when he finished the sculpture - can you imagine!? The piece was commissioned by the local government to be a symbol of Florence in 1501 - making David over 500 years old - and let me tell you - he is in pretty good shape!
After finishing at the Accademia, we headed back to the guest house for a well-earned siesta (remember we had been up since 3am!) of course along the way we made time for a gelato stop. Gelato is fantastic and perhaps one of Italy's greatest accomplishments. I am amazed that it has failed to become the global phenomenon that much of Italy's other cuisine has done. Over the three days we were in Florence I managed to sample the following flavours: meringue, crema, strachiatella (like a vanilla choc chip), creme caramel, nutella (Italians have a strange obsession with nutella - this suspicion was confirmed when I discovered a book in a local bookstore which was totally devoted to nutella and recipes with it as the main ingredient!), pistachio, chocolate orange, dark chocolate, irish cream, chocolate mousse, profiterole, and licorice. My favourite was the combination of licorice and dark chocolate. To be honest, even if Italy was lacking in every other area (which thankfully, it is not), I would probably go back for the gelato alone!
Waking from our siestas, with tummies ready to partake in yet another Italian gastronomic adventure, we headed to an Italian pizzeria (a cliche in every sense - the music, atmosphere, decor, menu...) situated right next to the Duomo for dinner. The pizza itself was nothing particularly special - a huge serving, with a lovely fresh base - I had a napoli which consisted of anchovies, capers, olives and fresh tomato and mozarella. I have had pizza of a similar quality at home, but the experience of sitting in an Italian restaurant in Florence over pizza and a bottle of wine, sharing the experience with a dear friend, will be hard to top none the less.
Leonardo Jnr had very kindly given us a map of the inner city and had marked on it various places he recommend we visit and also several places to eat at. We were not disappointed by his first recommendation, a gorgeous little restaurant named Za-za.
Having not eaten since leaving Stansted airport (and let’s be honest, can you really count airport food as real food!?), we were both starving. There were far too many choices on the menu, but after much agonising I narrowed it down to the fresh spinach and ricotta ravioli with creamy truffle sauce and a glass of pinot grigio (yes, I know I don’t drink wine, but when in Florence…)
The wine came quickly, along with a basket of freshly baked bread, which was equally quickly devoured. The bread was quite dense and crusty – but very yummy – especially with olive oil drizzled over the top! Finally, our mains came. The ravioli was delicious! I could tell it was fresh – the spinach in the ravioli was still green, and the pasta had that egg-y flavour that only comes when it is fresh. The sauce wasn’t too bad either… ok, let's be honest, it was fabulous… in fact, when I ran out of pasta I had to use the remaining bread to sop up the last bits of the sauce!
Fully restored, we headed to the Galleria dell'Accademia to check out the world's most famous sculpture - Michelangelo's David. The Accademia almost certainly has the biggest drawcard of the city, however the rest of the gallery really doesn't have anything else worth noting - especially by someone such as myself who has only recently discovered the joys of art appreciation.
However, just going to see David alone is well worth it. At 4.5 metres tall, he is certainly a lot bigger than I had realised he would be - and thus dominates the purpose built room he has been housed in since the late nineteenth century. Michelangelo was just 26 when he finished the sculpture - can you imagine!? The piece was commissioned by the local government to be a symbol of Florence in 1501 - making David over 500 years old - and let me tell you - he is in pretty good shape!
After finishing at the Accademia, we headed back to the guest house for a well-earned siesta (remember we had been up since 3am!) of course along the way we made time for a gelato stop. Gelato is fantastic and perhaps one of Italy's greatest accomplishments. I am amazed that it has failed to become the global phenomenon that much of Italy's other cuisine has done. Over the three days we were in Florence I managed to sample the following flavours: meringue, crema, strachiatella (like a vanilla choc chip), creme caramel, nutella (Italians have a strange obsession with nutella - this suspicion was confirmed when I discovered a book in a local bookstore which was totally devoted to nutella and recipes with it as the main ingredient!), pistachio, chocolate orange, dark chocolate, irish cream, chocolate mousse, profiterole, and licorice. My favourite was the combination of licorice and dark chocolate. To be honest, even if Italy was lacking in every other area (which thankfully, it is not), I would probably go back for the gelato alone!
Waking from our siestas, with tummies ready to partake in yet another Italian gastronomic adventure, we headed to an Italian pizzeria (a cliche in every sense - the music, atmosphere, decor, menu...) situated right next to the Duomo for dinner. The pizza itself was nothing particularly special - a huge serving, with a lovely fresh base - I had a napoli which consisted of anchovies, capers, olives and fresh tomato and mozarella. I have had pizza of a similar quality at home, but the experience of sitting in an Italian restaurant in Florence over pizza and a bottle of wine, sharing the experience with a dear friend, will be hard to top none the less.
Monday, November 20, 2006
All roads lead to... Florence
When I was 14 I had a brief (about 2 years) obsession with Italy. After my last few days in Florence, I am happy to say, the obsession is back!
Only three days in Italy was not nearly enough - but it was enough to get a taste of a culture that is so familiar through the cliches that we encounter on tv, the pictures we see, and through the books we read that I felt like I had been there before. It is such a hard thing to explain, every thing I saw and did felt oddly familiar, but at the same time it was such a different world too.
After another atrociously early start and a groggy flight (although sans airport dramas – even missed out on another pat down!), we arrived in Pisa early on the morning of November 9th. It was drizzling as we set out by city bus in search of the Leaning Tower. I took this as a good sign, as when we had arrived in Porto the weather had been fantastic, and then had quickly deteriorated for the rest of our stay, so I figured (read: hoped!) the opposite would happen this time.
Unlike the bus ride into the city which we took when we first arrived in Porto, the city-scape of Pisa did not ‘wow’ me. However, just the idea that I was in Italy: about to see some of the world’s most famous sites; eat some of the most talked about food; indulge in one of the most beloved cultures, was enough that by the time we arrived at ‘The Field of Miracles’, I could barely contain my excitement!
When you arrive at the bus stop outside the Field of Miracles there is nothing obvious to let you know that you have arrived at one of the most famous sites in the world. The bus stops on a busy main road on the edge of a piazza which has a tall old city wall as a boundary on the far side, blocking any view of the wonder beyond. Luckily, we innately knew to get off the bus, and proceeded to the far end of the piazza where there was an opening in the wall.
Walking through to the other side felt like walking into a different world… the field of miracles has three major buildings on the site: the baptistery, the duomo and the campanile (better known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa!). Each of these buildings have been constructed out of grey and white marble. I am sure that they look just incredible against a brilliant blue sky background, but the effect that was created with the drizzly grey sky was almost dream like as the sky and the buildings kind of melded into one.
I could tell already that I was going to enjoy Italy. We decided against splashing out 15 euros(!!!) each to climb the tower – apart from the cost, the idea of climbing a building in the wet which is made of slippery marble did not appeal. And even though it was drizzly and gloomy, we had a lovely time, wandering around the outside of the buildings, admiring the incredible architecture and taking far too many photos, and then indulging in some shopping for some very corny tourist products at the market stalls that were set up along one edge of the piazza.
After a couple of hours of aimless wandering, we caught the bus back to Pisa airport, collected our luggage and then caught another bus to Florence. The one and a half hour bus trip was very interesting: on both sides of the highway were gorgeous traditional farmhouses, with vineyards and olive trees and vege plots. It looked just like you would imagine things would have looked 60 or 70 years ago, with the one difference, being a huge, ugly highway running straight through the middle of it all – progress huh – got to love it!?!
At approximately 2pm we arrived at Florence’s central bus depot… gathered our luggage and headed into the city centre, armed with a map to find our accommodation, get settled quickly and then EXPLORE!
Only three days in Italy was not nearly enough - but it was enough to get a taste of a culture that is so familiar through the cliches that we encounter on tv, the pictures we see, and through the books we read that I felt like I had been there before. It is such a hard thing to explain, every thing I saw and did felt oddly familiar, but at the same time it was such a different world too.
After another atrociously early start and a groggy flight (although sans airport dramas – even missed out on another pat down!), we arrived in Pisa early on the morning of November 9th. It was drizzling as we set out by city bus in search of the Leaning Tower. I took this as a good sign, as when we had arrived in Porto the weather had been fantastic, and then had quickly deteriorated for the rest of our stay, so I figured (read: hoped!) the opposite would happen this time.
Unlike the bus ride into the city which we took when we first arrived in Porto, the city-scape of Pisa did not ‘wow’ me. However, just the idea that I was in Italy: about to see some of the world’s most famous sites; eat some of the most talked about food; indulge in one of the most beloved cultures, was enough that by the time we arrived at ‘The Field of Miracles’, I could barely contain my excitement!
When you arrive at the bus stop outside the Field of Miracles there is nothing obvious to let you know that you have arrived at one of the most famous sites in the world. The bus stops on a busy main road on the edge of a piazza which has a tall old city wall as a boundary on the far side, blocking any view of the wonder beyond. Luckily, we innately knew to get off the bus, and proceeded to the far end of the piazza where there was an opening in the wall.
Walking through to the other side felt like walking into a different world… the field of miracles has three major buildings on the site: the baptistery, the duomo and the campanile (better known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa!). Each of these buildings have been constructed out of grey and white marble. I am sure that they look just incredible against a brilliant blue sky background, but the effect that was created with the drizzly grey sky was almost dream like as the sky and the buildings kind of melded into one.
I could tell already that I was going to enjoy Italy. We decided against splashing out 15 euros(!!!) each to climb the tower – apart from the cost, the idea of climbing a building in the wet which is made of slippery marble did not appeal. And even though it was drizzly and gloomy, we had a lovely time, wandering around the outside of the buildings, admiring the incredible architecture and taking far too many photos, and then indulging in some shopping for some very corny tourist products at the market stalls that were set up along one edge of the piazza.
After a couple of hours of aimless wandering, we caught the bus back to Pisa airport, collected our luggage and then caught another bus to Florence. The one and a half hour bus trip was very interesting: on both sides of the highway were gorgeous traditional farmhouses, with vineyards and olive trees and vege plots. It looked just like you would imagine things would have looked 60 or 70 years ago, with the one difference, being a huge, ugly highway running straight through the middle of it all – progress huh – got to love it!?!
At approximately 2pm we arrived at Florence’s central bus depot… gathered our luggage and headed into the city centre, armed with a map to find our accommodation, get settled quickly and then EXPLORE!
Friday, November 17, 2006
In search of Robin Hood and his Merry Men
Two weekends ago, on a freezing cold saturday morning I left my warm bed and headed to the train station to catch a train to Nottingham to let medieval fantasies capture my imagination.
The trip to Nottingham was lovely. It just so happens that the trains going North are much newer, more comfortable, and cozier than trains going south to London and beyond. Within ten minutes of leaving Cambridge, the train was travelling through frost-covered fields - so thick it looked like snow. The anticipation of my day-trip adventure grew - with a start like this - how could it not deliver!?
After a two hour trip North, I arrived in Nottingham at just after 9am. Manouvering my way out of the train station, I followed the signs into the town centre. Unlike the medieval town walls that I would imagine used to keep transients out and the city folk in, there was a new barrier keeping visitors from the centre of town - a mall! It seemed to go on endlessly in either direction, and the only way to get to the city centre beyond was to go through... so that was what I did.
Being a female, a quick detour through the mall and out to the other side was never going to happen, and I took much longer than I had intended, browsing in the shop windows and even investigating several stores more thoroughly. To be honest, it all went to my head a bit, because England doesn't really do malls, and so to be inside a large building specifically devoted to shopping was a bit of a novelty.
Eventually, I did find my way out, and yet, was confronted by even more stores. In the end I discovered that Nottingham has not one but two malls, a maze of inner city streets devoted to retail therapy and several large department stores.
I did find some reference to Robin Hood eventually, but it took a bit of a hunt... down a couple of side streets, I found myself beside Nottingham Castle, which is perched up on a hill and looks out over the whole of Nottingham. Just outside the Castle gates there is a little park which has a Robin Hood statue... for a figure who's story has been retold all over the world, I was expecting a little more.
While I am not quite up with how the whole Robin Hood story ended, I have always believed that he succeeded in out-smarting his arch enemy, the Sheriff of Notthingham, and carried out his days robbing from the rich and giving to the poor. However, in an ironic twist, that only time can deliver, it seems that Robin may have one the battle, but perhaps the Sheriff did win the war... The Sheriffs legacy is the countless amount of high street chain stores which are now robbing the poor and giving back to the rich.
The trip to Nottingham was lovely. It just so happens that the trains going North are much newer, more comfortable, and cozier than trains going south to London and beyond. Within ten minutes of leaving Cambridge, the train was travelling through frost-covered fields - so thick it looked like snow. The anticipation of my day-trip adventure grew - with a start like this - how could it not deliver!?
After a two hour trip North, I arrived in Nottingham at just after 9am. Manouvering my way out of the train station, I followed the signs into the town centre. Unlike the medieval town walls that I would imagine used to keep transients out and the city folk in, there was a new barrier keeping visitors from the centre of town - a mall! It seemed to go on endlessly in either direction, and the only way to get to the city centre beyond was to go through... so that was what I did.
Being a female, a quick detour through the mall and out to the other side was never going to happen, and I took much longer than I had intended, browsing in the shop windows and even investigating several stores more thoroughly. To be honest, it all went to my head a bit, because England doesn't really do malls, and so to be inside a large building specifically devoted to shopping was a bit of a novelty.
Eventually, I did find my way out, and yet, was confronted by even more stores. In the end I discovered that Nottingham has not one but two malls, a maze of inner city streets devoted to retail therapy and several large department stores.
I did find some reference to Robin Hood eventually, but it took a bit of a hunt... down a couple of side streets, I found myself beside Nottingham Castle, which is perched up on a hill and looks out over the whole of Nottingham. Just outside the Castle gates there is a little park which has a Robin Hood statue... for a figure who's story has been retold all over the world, I was expecting a little more.
While I am not quite up with how the whole Robin Hood story ended, I have always believed that he succeeded in out-smarting his arch enemy, the Sheriff of Notthingham, and carried out his days robbing from the rich and giving to the poor. However, in an ironic twist, that only time can deliver, it seems that Robin may have one the battle, but perhaps the Sheriff did win the war... The Sheriffs legacy is the countless amount of high street chain stores which are now robbing the poor and giving back to the rich.
Thursday, November 02, 2006
Sub zero and other matters
So, I can officially start moaning about the bloody awful English weather - we have now entered sub zero temperatures (not all day - but the overnight low)! It is horrid. My nose actually hurt this morning - it was that cold! I had to buy mittens today too... they are lovely though!
Anyway, enough moaning about the weather, and on to more interesting matters. I spent the last weekend in London - with the in-laws(!!) and had a wonderful time. I caught the train (the Cambridge Express!) down on Saturday morning and then the tube to their flat in Clapham North. After seeing their flat, I understand why people choose to live in London... the flat is a lovely two-bedroom apartment in a big old victorian building and is literally a 3 minute walk from the tube station (and therefore Westminster, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus etc are only about 10 - 15 minutes away)... their local pub is 1 minute down the road and they are 5 minutes from the high street which is chocker with interesting shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.
The highlights of my weekend, apart from catching up with the family, were climbing the Monument Tower (311 steps!); visiting Harrods which is all set up for Christmas; star spotting along the River Thames; and passing through Speakers Corner in Hyde Park.
Monument Tower
My friend Hayley advised Monument Tower as a much cheaper answer to the London Eye. It cost £2 per person and took 311 steps up a spiral staircase to get to the top. The tower is 202 feet high and was built to commemorate the Great (!?) fire of 1666... which started in a bakery on Pudding Lane. The spiral staircase was narrow and steep... and just a little scary, but once we got to the top it was fantastic... London goes on as far as the eye can see in every direction... and it really gives you some perspective as to how big that city really is! An added bonus was that once we got to the bottom again we got a certificate to say that we had climbed the tower - so it really must have been hard work!
Christmas Harrods
This visit was my second to Harrods, but it seemed slightly more magical this time - with all the Christmas decorations out... and that 'Christmas rush'-feeling going on (yes - it was still October and the Christmas rush had started already! - I don't actually think I could handle the real Christmas rush when we get into December!).
When you think about it, if you had enough money in the bank you could buy everything you ever needed from Harrods... it is like the ultimate department store, but for the uber-rich... they have everything from golf equipment to handkerchiefs; candles to ice cream...
Both times I have been to Harrods I have been drawn to the food halls... which are like a fantasy-land, they have every type of food you can imagine - a whole hall devoted to chocolates and other sweets, counters that serve all types of ready-to-go-food - pizzas, tapas, ice-cream sundaes... even an oyster bar (with a dozen oysters for 28 pounds)!! In my dreams I imagine walking through and actually buying everything that takes my fancy. It all looks so good. Mind you, if I had enough money to indulge that fantasy, I wouldn't be walking, I'd be waddling, so maybe being poor is good for something!
Star Spotting
On Sunday morning I caught the tube to Waterloo (no Abba please!) to meet my friend Lisa for brunch. We went to a place called Giraffe, right alongside the Thames, and I had delicious blueberry and banana pancakes that I highly recommend!
As we were leaving, I had my first real experience of super celebrity star spotting... I was waiting for Lisa outside the cafe, and admiring a dog that was sitting at one of the tables outside th cafe... then decided to check out the people that owned such a cute dog (as you do)... and who should it be, but Kevin Spacey... how totally surreal! At home, I would get excited if I got to see the Briscoes lady in public - but Kevin Spacey - wow! That's the thing about this place, the people you see in the tabloids actually live here... back in New Zealand I had thought they were from a different planet. Yes they are, and that planet is called London!
Speakers Corner, Hyde Park
We passed through Hyde Park on Sunday afternoon, on our way to the Marble Arch tube station [there are so many cool tube station names - Angel, Marble Arch... my favourite is one called Elephant & Castle - I will have to take a photo when I eventually go there!]. Hyde Park is just a lovely place to wander through, there always seem to be people there lazing about, and it is really an enormous green (although pretty much brown and organge at the moment) space, right smack-bang in the middle of London. On our way through, we went past an area called Speakers Corner... and while the Diana Memorial was my favourite spot in Hyde Park (due to it being a very relaxing place to cool off in the sweltering English summer (yes, yes, somewhat of an oxymoron!)), now that summer is over, Speakers Corner is officially my favourite Hyde Park destination... where else can you go and listen and watch a bunch of crazies on their soap boxes interact with the general public!? - I tell you what, I thought the Cambridge bus system provided some good entertainment - but this, this is truly oscar worthy!
Anyway, enough moaning about the weather, and on to more interesting matters. I spent the last weekend in London - with the in-laws(!!) and had a wonderful time. I caught the train (the Cambridge Express!) down on Saturday morning and then the tube to their flat in Clapham North. After seeing their flat, I understand why people choose to live in London... the flat is a lovely two-bedroom apartment in a big old victorian building and is literally a 3 minute walk from the tube station (and therefore Westminster, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus etc are only about 10 - 15 minutes away)... their local pub is 1 minute down the road and they are 5 minutes from the high street which is chocker with interesting shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.
The highlights of my weekend, apart from catching up with the family, were climbing the Monument Tower (311 steps!); visiting Harrods which is all set up for Christmas; star spotting along the River Thames; and passing through Speakers Corner in Hyde Park.
Monument Tower
My friend Hayley advised Monument Tower as a much cheaper answer to the London Eye. It cost £2 per person and took 311 steps up a spiral staircase to get to the top. The tower is 202 feet high and was built to commemorate the Great (!?) fire of 1666... which started in a bakery on Pudding Lane. The spiral staircase was narrow and steep... and just a little scary, but once we got to the top it was fantastic... London goes on as far as the eye can see in every direction... and it really gives you some perspective as to how big that city really is! An added bonus was that once we got to the bottom again we got a certificate to say that we had climbed the tower - so it really must have been hard work!
Christmas Harrods
This visit was my second to Harrods, but it seemed slightly more magical this time - with all the Christmas decorations out... and that 'Christmas rush'-feeling going on (yes - it was still October and the Christmas rush had started already! - I don't actually think I could handle the real Christmas rush when we get into December!).
When you think about it, if you had enough money in the bank you could buy everything you ever needed from Harrods... it is like the ultimate department store, but for the uber-rich... they have everything from golf equipment to handkerchiefs; candles to ice cream...
Both times I have been to Harrods I have been drawn to the food halls... which are like a fantasy-land, they have every type of food you can imagine - a whole hall devoted to chocolates and other sweets, counters that serve all types of ready-to-go-food - pizzas, tapas, ice-cream sundaes... even an oyster bar (with a dozen oysters for 28 pounds)!! In my dreams I imagine walking through and actually buying everything that takes my fancy. It all looks so good. Mind you, if I had enough money to indulge that fantasy, I wouldn't be walking, I'd be waddling, so maybe being poor is good for something!
Star Spotting
On Sunday morning I caught the tube to Waterloo (no Abba please!) to meet my friend Lisa for brunch. We went to a place called Giraffe, right alongside the Thames, and I had delicious blueberry and banana pancakes that I highly recommend!
As we were leaving, I had my first real experience of super celebrity star spotting... I was waiting for Lisa outside the cafe, and admiring a dog that was sitting at one of the tables outside th cafe... then decided to check out the people that owned such a cute dog (as you do)... and who should it be, but Kevin Spacey... how totally surreal! At home, I would get excited if I got to see the Briscoes lady in public - but Kevin Spacey - wow! That's the thing about this place, the people you see in the tabloids actually live here... back in New Zealand I had thought they were from a different planet. Yes they are, and that planet is called London!
Speakers Corner, Hyde Park
We passed through Hyde Park on Sunday afternoon, on our way to the Marble Arch tube station [there are so many cool tube station names - Angel, Marble Arch... my favourite is one called Elephant & Castle - I will have to take a photo when I eventually go there!]. Hyde Park is just a lovely place to wander through, there always seem to be people there lazing about, and it is really an enormous green (although pretty much brown and organge at the moment) space, right smack-bang in the middle of London. On our way through, we went past an area called Speakers Corner... and while the Diana Memorial was my favourite spot in Hyde Park (due to it being a very relaxing place to cool off in the sweltering English summer (yes, yes, somewhat of an oxymoron!)), now that summer is over, Speakers Corner is officially my favourite Hyde Park destination... where else can you go and listen and watch a bunch of crazies on their soap boxes interact with the general public!? - I tell you what, I thought the Cambridge bus system provided some good entertainment - but this, this is truly oscar worthy!
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Porto: a gastronomic wonder
One of the reasons we chose Porto as our first city-break destination (apart from the absurdly cheap airfares) was that a foodie magazine I had recently read declared it one of Europe´s top foodie cities.
As you can imagine, my mind wandered and I had conjured up an idea of each meal I would indulge in while we were there... feasting on local specialities, I would take notes at the dinner table as to how I could recreate the wonders at home. I can safely report, that there has been no such note-taking, in fact, one of the things I will miss least about Porto is the cuisine.
The following paragraphs will detail a few of the gastronomic encounters that took place:
Francesinha (or as I like to think of it, a heart attack waiting to happen)
Take two slices of bread, toast lightly... sandwich between bread: 1 piece of steak, 2 or 3 long salami like sausages (mildly spicy), and two different ham-like products... next cover with cheese and grill until melted... finally, and most importantly, place in a bowl and drown in a mildly spiced gravy. Serve. (sometimes, if you are feeling particularly cholesterol deficient you may like to put a fried egg on the top)
Yes, I tried the Francesinha. I must admit, I did ask for it without the steak, so I was only eating products from one farm animal instead of two... I didn't opt for the egg on top either. For someone who has consisted on a mainly vegetarian diet since arriving in England, it was a bold choice, but it was a Portuguese speciality and I felt obliged to give it a go. I only managed to finish half of it. I can't say that it was absolutely terrible, but I can also quite happily state that I will never have another, or have the desire to have another.
Bacalhau. Sounds exotic doesn't it? It's dried salted cod. Hmmm... yes, so what they have done is take a perfectly good fresh fish... then prepare it so that the diner feels like she (or he) is munching on fish jerky. Not particularly appetising. I had mine with boiled potatoes and egg and a couple of olives and slices of tomato. There is another dish which is called Bacalhau a gomes de sa and it serves the fish with onions, boiled potatoes, scrambled eggs, olives and parsley. Sounds pretty appetising, but after the first encounter with the dried fish, I opted out.
In general, no matter where you go, the cafe under the hotel, the cheap cafe down the side street, the expensive restaurant down on the riverside... the menu is always the same...the prices may change, but basically you are consistently confronted with meat, meat, meat, potatoes, rice... after just four days, I was fantasising about salads and fresh fruit.
Now, before I go, I have to commend the Portuguese on two things they do very well.
The first, blatantly obvious, Port. We had a fantastic tasting session in a little rustic place called Vinologia, located near the river... we were treated to six different types of port, all from small grower/producers in the Porto area. I discovered that there are several different types of Port - the dark reds, tawnys and whites! We got to sample the only organic port that is currently produced and a type which will continue to improve each year until it is opened because of the special bottling process involved. I can't say that Port is my thing, a bit too sickly sweet for me... but this was definitely my foodie highlight!
The other gastronomic pleasure which cannot pass uncommented on is Portuguese pastries. Central Porto is saturated with bakeries. We decided very early on in the stay that Portugal must have one of the highest person:bakery ratios in the world! The thing they specialise in, and they do it very well, is custard-filled pastries... that is custard tarts, which have been baked and kind of resemble a creme brulee in a pastry case... or custard filled doughnuts... or multi-layered custard/pastry towers! We developed an afternoon pastry habit... after a day in the rain, there was nothing we looked forward to more, than taking refuge back in the hotel room for a late afternoon siesta and a pastry fix!
So, in conclusion, if you are looking for all your culinary dreams to come true in Portugal, don't bother... however if you have a sweet tooth for pastries and port... then you'll be in heaven!
As you can imagine, my mind wandered and I had conjured up an idea of each meal I would indulge in while we were there... feasting on local specialities, I would take notes at the dinner table as to how I could recreate the wonders at home. I can safely report, that there has been no such note-taking, in fact, one of the things I will miss least about Porto is the cuisine.
The following paragraphs will detail a few of the gastronomic encounters that took place:
Francesinha (or as I like to think of it, a heart attack waiting to happen)
Take two slices of bread, toast lightly... sandwich between bread: 1 piece of steak, 2 or 3 long salami like sausages (mildly spicy), and two different ham-like products... next cover with cheese and grill until melted... finally, and most importantly, place in a bowl and drown in a mildly spiced gravy. Serve. (sometimes, if you are feeling particularly cholesterol deficient you may like to put a fried egg on the top)
Yes, I tried the Francesinha. I must admit, I did ask for it without the steak, so I was only eating products from one farm animal instead of two... I didn't opt for the egg on top either. For someone who has consisted on a mainly vegetarian diet since arriving in England, it was a bold choice, but it was a Portuguese speciality and I felt obliged to give it a go. I only managed to finish half of it. I can't say that it was absolutely terrible, but I can also quite happily state that I will never have another, or have the desire to have another.
Bacalhau. Sounds exotic doesn't it? It's dried salted cod. Hmmm... yes, so what they have done is take a perfectly good fresh fish... then prepare it so that the diner feels like she (or he) is munching on fish jerky. Not particularly appetising. I had mine with boiled potatoes and egg and a couple of olives and slices of tomato. There is another dish which is called Bacalhau a gomes de sa and it serves the fish with onions, boiled potatoes, scrambled eggs, olives and parsley. Sounds pretty appetising, but after the first encounter with the dried fish, I opted out.
In general, no matter where you go, the cafe under the hotel, the cheap cafe down the side street, the expensive restaurant down on the riverside... the menu is always the same...the prices may change, but basically you are consistently confronted with meat, meat, meat, potatoes, rice... after just four days, I was fantasising about salads and fresh fruit.
Now, before I go, I have to commend the Portuguese on two things they do very well.
The first, blatantly obvious, Port. We had a fantastic tasting session in a little rustic place called Vinologia, located near the river... we were treated to six different types of port, all from small grower/producers in the Porto area. I discovered that there are several different types of Port - the dark reds, tawnys and whites! We got to sample the only organic port that is currently produced and a type which will continue to improve each year until it is opened because of the special bottling process involved. I can't say that Port is my thing, a bit too sickly sweet for me... but this was definitely my foodie highlight!
The other gastronomic pleasure which cannot pass uncommented on is Portuguese pastries. Central Porto is saturated with bakeries. We decided very early on in the stay that Portugal must have one of the highest person:bakery ratios in the world! The thing they specialise in, and they do it very well, is custard-filled pastries... that is custard tarts, which have been baked and kind of resemble a creme brulee in a pastry case... or custard filled doughnuts... or multi-layered custard/pastry towers! We developed an afternoon pastry habit... after a day in the rain, there was nothing we looked forward to more, than taking refuge back in the hotel room for a late afternoon siesta and a pastry fix!
So, in conclusion, if you are looking for all your culinary dreams to come true in Portugal, don't bother... however if you have a sweet tooth for pastries and port... then you'll be in heaven!
Friday, October 20, 2006
"You´re not in Kansas Anymore..."
I don´t think English people realise how lucky they are... the ease with which they can travel onto the European continent in the 21st century is astounding. Airlines like Ryan air and Easy jet sell one way tickets to Florence, Prague, Berlin, Paris (and on, and on, and on...) for as little as 79p and you just pay airport taxes on top of that! -- how can such deals be resisted?? A four day trip to Porto, for example, winds up cheaper than a trip of similar length to Manchester, when you take into account the cost of accommodation.
And thus, Bri and I set out for Porto this last Tuesday, for a four-day city break. Would you believe, two hours and five minutes after leaving London Stansted airport and we were in Portugal?!?
I was really looking forward to my first opportunity to get out on to the European continent. My only concern was the language barrier. I am afraid that languages don't come naturally to me, and this would be my first visit to a non-English speaking country, so I wasn't sure what to expect. Armed with a phrase book and a very bad accent, we made our way into the city centre.
The bus ride into central Porto was fascinating... one of the most dominant features of portuguese architecture is tazulejo (or tiling) and 85% of the buildings - whether they be homes, office buildings or public buildings such as churches - use this feature. It was so different to anything I'd seen before, and meant that even the more run down areas we passed had a beauty and character that I have not seen in areas of similar wealth in England or New Zealand.
Arriving in central Porto, the bus dropped us off, and it was a short, confusing wander to our hotel which was right on the border of the World Heritage zoned Historic City Centre. The city was everything Id dreamed of a European city to be - cobbled roads, central courtyard areas dotted with cafes and umbrellas, and sneaky little lanes that were begging to be explored!
We soon found out that the language barrier was not going to be a problem. Every single person we encountered spoke English. I felt guilty - as though I was in their country and should be making an effort to communicate in their language, but as soon as I pulled out the phrase book they would just speak to us in English - I guess it was easier (and much faster!) for both them and me. We did pick up a few key phrases though - hello, thank you, please - just to feel as though we were making an effort.
One thing I was not prepared for was the weather. It rained (I'm talking torrential, bucketing rain) from the first afternoon we arrived until our last afternoon in Porto. Europe has always been a bit of a fantasy destination for me, and with fantasy destinations you imagine fantasy weather (sunshine or snow - nothing in between!) - can you believe we even packed our togs!? Alas, it wasn't to be... one person we met told us that this is the worst weather they have had for this time of year that he can remember!
I can't say that Porto was a city of must-see attractions, rather it was the type of city that you visit just to wander the streets, to soak in a culture that is so different to your own. For four days we wandered, poking our heads in to museums and churches, sampling Port and other Portuguese specialities, window shopping the latest European fashions, and then before we knew it, it was time to go home... a 2 hour and 5 minutes flight later and we were back in England... a whole world away.
And thus, Bri and I set out for Porto this last Tuesday, for a four-day city break. Would you believe, two hours and five minutes after leaving London Stansted airport and we were in Portugal?!?
I was really looking forward to my first opportunity to get out on to the European continent. My only concern was the language barrier. I am afraid that languages don't come naturally to me, and this would be my first visit to a non-English speaking country, so I wasn't sure what to expect. Armed with a phrase book and a very bad accent, we made our way into the city centre.
The bus ride into central Porto was fascinating... one of the most dominant features of portuguese architecture is tazulejo (or tiling) and 85% of the buildings - whether they be homes, office buildings or public buildings such as churches - use this feature. It was so different to anything I'd seen before, and meant that even the more run down areas we passed had a beauty and character that I have not seen in areas of similar wealth in England or New Zealand.
Arriving in central Porto, the bus dropped us off, and it was a short, confusing wander to our hotel which was right on the border of the World Heritage zoned Historic City Centre. The city was everything Id dreamed of a European city to be - cobbled roads, central courtyard areas dotted with cafes and umbrellas, and sneaky little lanes that were begging to be explored!
We soon found out that the language barrier was not going to be a problem. Every single person we encountered spoke English. I felt guilty - as though I was in their country and should be making an effort to communicate in their language, but as soon as I pulled out the phrase book they would just speak to us in English - I guess it was easier (and much faster!) for both them and me. We did pick up a few key phrases though - hello, thank you, please - just to feel as though we were making an effort.
One thing I was not prepared for was the weather. It rained (I'm talking torrential, bucketing rain) from the first afternoon we arrived until our last afternoon in Porto. Europe has always been a bit of a fantasy destination for me, and with fantasy destinations you imagine fantasy weather (sunshine or snow - nothing in between!) - can you believe we even packed our togs!? Alas, it wasn't to be... one person we met told us that this is the worst weather they have had for this time of year that he can remember!
I can't say that Porto was a city of must-see attractions, rather it was the type of city that you visit just to wander the streets, to soak in a culture that is so different to your own. For four days we wandered, poking our heads in to museums and churches, sampling Port and other Portuguese specialities, window shopping the latest European fashions, and then before we knew it, it was time to go home... a 2 hour and 5 minutes flight later and we were back in England... a whole world away.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Ob-la-di, Ob-la-da... Life goes on
I have discovered that real life tends to sneak up on you no matter where you are... it was a little over three months ago that I left New Zealand and I am amazed at how normal my life in Cambridge now seems.
I was on the bus on my way to work the other morning, and just had a crazy dream-like moment - what am I doing here... how is this my life? Aren't I meant to be in New Zealand enjoying the spring weather and making plans for a nice long summer? Several months ago I was at home, with Barry and family and friends getting on with life... and now here I am, doing it in Cambridge... and it just feels so normal.
Its not new and fresh anymore... the small things that I got a kick out of just because they were different, like supermarket shopping or catching the bus... are now the norm and no big deal.
I miss people and things from home, but I'm now used to being without them... it's like I am fully adjusted to this life in England. (OK, almost fully... I must admit that I utter, "These English people are a bit weird" about once a week.)
There are aspects I really enjoy... things I didn't really think about before I left... I am actually enjoying the independence of the whole experience more than I thought I would. It's strange, in so many ways I miss being able to share this experience with Barry... there is so much that I know he would add... wanting to see things that I wouldn't necessarily want to see, but do end up enjoying... or just noticing different aspects of the world around us that I don't. At the same time though, having this experience by myself makes me feel like a real adult for pretty much the first time in my life... still, it is a rather odd way to spend our first year of marriage... and one we won't be repeating - ever, ever, ever!
Winter is setting in, and I am told that by early November it will be dark on my way to work and dark on my way home... lunchtime will be my only chance to see the sun, and I am not looking forward to the vitamin D deficiency!
It is obvious that I need to shake things up a little and while I can't avoid a routine life for ever, I can devise some substantial distractions. Bri and I are off to Porto on Tuesday, and I think that is a good start...
I was on the bus on my way to work the other morning, and just had a crazy dream-like moment - what am I doing here... how is this my life? Aren't I meant to be in New Zealand enjoying the spring weather and making plans for a nice long summer? Several months ago I was at home, with Barry and family and friends getting on with life... and now here I am, doing it in Cambridge... and it just feels so normal.
Its not new and fresh anymore... the small things that I got a kick out of just because they were different, like supermarket shopping or catching the bus... are now the norm and no big deal.
I miss people and things from home, but I'm now used to being without them... it's like I am fully adjusted to this life in England. (OK, almost fully... I must admit that I utter, "These English people are a bit weird" about once a week.)
There are aspects I really enjoy... things I didn't really think about before I left... I am actually enjoying the independence of the whole experience more than I thought I would. It's strange, in so many ways I miss being able to share this experience with Barry... there is so much that I know he would add... wanting to see things that I wouldn't necessarily want to see, but do end up enjoying... or just noticing different aspects of the world around us that I don't. At the same time though, having this experience by myself makes me feel like a real adult for pretty much the first time in my life... still, it is a rather odd way to spend our first year of marriage... and one we won't be repeating - ever, ever, ever!
Winter is setting in, and I am told that by early November it will be dark on my way to work and dark on my way home... lunchtime will be my only chance to see the sun, and I am not looking forward to the vitamin D deficiency!
It is obvious that I need to shake things up a little and while I can't avoid a routine life for ever, I can devise some substantial distractions. Bri and I are off to Porto on Tuesday, and I think that is a good start...
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Following the Pack
I have spent the last two weekends in London and have been able to tick off many of the Must Sees of the 21st century tourist making their pilgrimage to London. I followed the crowds through Westminster, the Tower of London, the British Museum, Trafalgar Square, Leicester Square, Picadilly Circus, Covent Garden, the Tate Modern, Borough Markets (twice! - and yes, it really is that good!), Princess Di's Memorial Fountain in Hyde Park, and past St Pauls.
Westminster was incredible. Ten pounds to get in (a bit tough, but worth it) and my mouth literally dropped open once I stepped inside. I'm not big on churches, for some reason they kind of freak me out and the amount of memorials and tombs in the Abbey should have been unsettling. Instead I found the throngs of tourists the unsettling part. Who am I to complain, I was one of them. It was difficult however to really soak in the atmosphere of this building with hundreds of people pushing past each other to get a good look at the internal architecture, memorials and tombs; to have a bite to eat in the cafe; and buy a postcard or a miniture Abbey at the gift shop. Whoever built the church so many centuries ago would never have been able to foresee what it was to become.
On the plus side, Westminster really does a good job of displaying a who's who of English history... from the various monarchs who ruled the nation, to cultural icons such as Shakespeare and Chaucer, to the unnamed soldier who represents everyday people - everyone who has had a role in shaping the nation seems to have found a final home at Westminster.
The Tower of London was probably my highlight. It is hard to leave a building whose foundation was started by England's first King off the agenda... even at £15 per person admission!
We took a tour with a yeoman warder, who's story intrigued me... apparently these warders have to have served with the British SAS (or similar - fancypants military service basically) for a minimum of 20 or 25 years to apply for a position. For every position that becomes available, there will be 100 applicants, 6 will make the cut to interview stage and then 1 will actually get the job! I'm not sure what the attraction is, they have to wear a very silly looking outfit, and of course they no longer actually protect the Queen/King/reigning Monarch as she lives elsewhere, so it would seem they spend their days giving guided tours to scores of visitors. They get to live within the Tower though, which must be quite exciting, but even that novelty would wear off eventually...
The tour was very interesting... at first I thought tours were a bit cheesy, but have since found that hearing stories from someone with enthusiasm and inside knowledge really helps to make some of these historic buildings come alive.
Afterwards, we made our way through the White Tower - which was the very first part of the Tower of London and almost 1000 years old! 'Tower of London' really is a bit of a misleading name as once you get inside it really feels like you are inside a small town surrounded by walls. There are cobble-stoned streets and buildings have been added continuously throughout the centuries. We also wandered through the building which houses the crown jewels. That was pretty impressive! Some of the crowns and other jewels that they had on display where so ornate that they bordered on ridiculous... the gems were so big, it was hard to believe they were real!
I think you could spend a lifetime living in London and still not uncover all that it has to offer... so what chance do I have with the few months that I have left?!?! I will just have to do my best... and I'm already planning my next weekend trip!
Westminster was incredible. Ten pounds to get in (a bit tough, but worth it) and my mouth literally dropped open once I stepped inside. I'm not big on churches, for some reason they kind of freak me out and the amount of memorials and tombs in the Abbey should have been unsettling. Instead I found the throngs of tourists the unsettling part. Who am I to complain, I was one of them. It was difficult however to really soak in the atmosphere of this building with hundreds of people pushing past each other to get a good look at the internal architecture, memorials and tombs; to have a bite to eat in the cafe; and buy a postcard or a miniture Abbey at the gift shop. Whoever built the church so many centuries ago would never have been able to foresee what it was to become.
On the plus side, Westminster really does a good job of displaying a who's who of English history... from the various monarchs who ruled the nation, to cultural icons such as Shakespeare and Chaucer, to the unnamed soldier who represents everyday people - everyone who has had a role in shaping the nation seems to have found a final home at Westminster.
The Tower of London was probably my highlight. It is hard to leave a building whose foundation was started by England's first King off the agenda... even at £15 per person admission!
We took a tour with a yeoman warder, who's story intrigued me... apparently these warders have to have served with the British SAS (or similar - fancypants military service basically) for a minimum of 20 or 25 years to apply for a position. For every position that becomes available, there will be 100 applicants, 6 will make the cut to interview stage and then 1 will actually get the job! I'm not sure what the attraction is, they have to wear a very silly looking outfit, and of course they no longer actually protect the Queen/King/reigning Monarch as she lives elsewhere, so it would seem they spend their days giving guided tours to scores of visitors. They get to live within the Tower though, which must be quite exciting, but even that novelty would wear off eventually...
The tour was very interesting... at first I thought tours were a bit cheesy, but have since found that hearing stories from someone with enthusiasm and inside knowledge really helps to make some of these historic buildings come alive.
Afterwards, we made our way through the White Tower - which was the very first part of the Tower of London and almost 1000 years old! 'Tower of London' really is a bit of a misleading name as once you get inside it really feels like you are inside a small town surrounded by walls. There are cobble-stoned streets and buildings have been added continuously throughout the centuries. We also wandered through the building which houses the crown jewels. That was pretty impressive! Some of the crowns and other jewels that they had on display where so ornate that they bordered on ridiculous... the gems were so big, it was hard to believe they were real!
I think you could spend a lifetime living in London and still not uncover all that it has to offer... so what chance do I have with the few months that I have left?!?! I will just have to do my best... and I'm already planning my next weekend trip!
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
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